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If there was one peak on my North American Highest list that was worth climbing a second time, it was Denali, and I was eager to see the historic Muldrow Route. I was also interested in a traverse of the great peak.

Muldrow Traverse - Denali 1990 Podcast

Click to stream the Denali 1990 Podcast. (13 minutes)

Click to download the Denali 1990 Podcast. (15 mb)
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Denali seen from the top of 7,010-foot “Syzygy Summit.” The Muldrow Glacier is the right glacier, and the Traleika Glacier is the left glacier. The sun-shadow ridge between the two glaciers is the Carpe Ridge leading to 11,140-foot Mount Tatum. This ridge ultimately becomes Karstens Ridge. The 20,320-foot South Peak is on the left, and the 19,470-foot North Peak is on the right.
Photo by Gerry Roach in 1967.
The Hill of Cracks on the Muldrow Glacier. The cloud-shrouded summit in the center is the North Peak. The sunlit feature below the North Peak is the 11,650-foot Flatiron. You can just see the South Peak left of center.
Low on Karstens Ridge, looking back down the Muldrow. Gerry on top of Denali for the second time,
27 years after his 1963 climb as a teenager.
12,210-foot Mount Koven seen from the upper Muldrow Glacier. In 1990, this peak was still unclimbed. 14,573-foot Mount Hunter aka Denali’s Child, seen from the upper Kahiltna Glacier.
All photos from the Gerry Roach Collection
Copyright © 2001-2019 by Gerry Roach. All Rights Reserved.
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